Saulges

Saulges is known for a small church which was begun in the 7th century, for its proximity to limestone caves, and for an old mill at a nearby chateau.

During Merovingian times (about the 7th c), a large cemetery was built on the spot where the village lies today. In the 8th c., a church was built on the same spot and dedicated to St. Peter. A second church dedicated to Notre-Dame was erected there in the 11th c. The bell tower was constructed slightly later in the 12th c, topped with a pyramidal roof, and flanked by a staircase tower; the tower is original, though the roof was restored.

The exterior of the church looked promising, but inside, restorations at different times disrupted its unity. Traces of the Carolingian period that remain are the north transept and the long nave with primitive small windows. The choir was redone in the gothic period and ended in a flat wall. The sculptures were done even later.


The entrance is through the chapel which is decorated in the 16th c with wall paintings. Throughout the church are several polychrome wood statues representing saints to whom pilgrims would have prayed.

On the wall in a small room was a small square stone with a deer carved in it. It was from the 5th c and was brought back from Carthage.

The Caves
We knew there were caves nearby and when went to the tourist office, the agent told us that we were just in time to join the guided visit to the Grotte à Margot. It was 4:30 pm. Legend recounts that Margot was accused of witchcraft and disappeared into the cave. At the entrance, the guide explained that the passages were narrow and slippery and that once inside, we would not be able to go back. He looked at me and asked if I was sure I wanted to go in. I was sure.

The guide was leading a group of high school students and their teacher. The students had a questionnaire to complete so the visit was oriented to help them learn about the cave. He did so in a way that amused us all and obviously kept the students interested. He first explained how the cave was formed. He said that the limestone rock was formed in a shallow sea about 340 million years ago and re-emerged when mountain rose. Much later, almost 2 million years ago, a river wore away a steep canyon and formed a valley; it also enlarged cracks in the limestone and eroded an underground network accessible by twenty entrances known to date.

Archaeologists have found traces of paint dating from about 25,000 years ago and carvings done 13,000 years later, fossils from animals that inhabited the region, but unfortunately they were not part of our visit. Bats inhabit the cave in winter, but we did not see any.

A few passages turned out to be only about four feet high so that I had to crouch. My knees hurt and I was obviously having a hard time, so the guide and the teacher had to help me through the lowest passages, all the while making jokes and protecting me, the guide with his hand on my head, Eliane pushing my rear! We all exited safely, laughing.


The Mill at Thévalles

The first mention of a mill at the chateau of Thévalles was in 1260. A new mill and chateau were built in the 16th c; the mill was restored in the 19th c. The mill once ground spelt flour; it still functions, but only when a guide is present.

A row of walnut trees bordered the vast property. Eliane knew to gather the walnuts which we were to have later at dinner. It was the first time I had tasted fresh walnuts and they were delicious, quite different in flavor and texture from those I have always known.