Pontrieux

Pontrieux spans the river Trieux for which the town is named. It is known for its fifty lavoirs, or wash stands, that remain along the banks of the river. They can be viewed from the bridge spanning the Trieux or in a small boat that goes along it. The flower-lined bridge, the willows that dip into the water, and the trees that shade some of the lavoirs make for very picturesque views.


Pontrieux’s history is one of destruction, siege, flooding, and burning. It is only since 1790 that Pontrieux has been habitable without fear. Here is a short list:
1345 city is taken and destroyed on order of the King of England for Jean de Montfort (war of succession)
1488 city taken and pillaged by French troops under viscount Rohan
1490 city taken by a Breton captain with help of 1500 English troops
1773 Pontrieux is flooded
1777 Pontrieux Rue des Galeries, the main street leading from the bridge was burned

We arrived in Pontrieux just at lunchtime. There it was – a creperie, right near the bridge. It was full but we were seated right across from the kitchen bar so we could see the crepes being made. The restaurant was small, but every table was taken. At one behind us, were two women and the dog I recognized because I saw him the day before at La Roche Jagu. He sat quietly all throughout lunch.


Pontrieux is a prosperous town whose most impressive attraction is its lavoirs, originally constructed behind every bourgeois house, now beautifully restored by a local association interested in preserving the town’s heritage. Many of the former dwellings have been restored by artisans who have established boutiques in the town. One shop belonged to an artist who made wooden toys; two beautifully carved swords hung inside the window of the entrance.

Most of the buildings in Pontrieux are stone; most of the half-timbered houses would not have survived the catastrophes of the 18th century. One house that does remain from the 15th century is the tourist office, known affectionately as the “Eiffel Tower.” It is one of the highest houses in Pontrieux. Because it sits at the edge of the rocky coast, it was built to have direct access to a watch tower at the rear of the house. The tower permitted surveillance of the port and river traffic.