Tréguier

Treguier is one lovely city.

Tréguier is located on the estuary formed where the Jaudy and Guindy rivers form the Tréguier and reach the open sea about 7 miles away. Tréguier (Trecorum), which dates from the sixth century, grew up round a monastery founded by Saint Tudwal (died c. 564), a Welsh monk, who founded the monastery of Landreger (from two Breton/Latin words meaning “three-cornered land”) in the 6th c.

Historically, Tréguier was as a religious capital of the region. By about 1000, Treguier had become one of nine bishoprics of Brittany. The cathedral of Saint Tugdual dates from the 14th c and the epicopal palaces from the 15th and 17th c. They remain intact and contribute in great measure to the character of the town at present. (Remarkably, Saint Tugdual was not touched by bombs during the Second World War.)

The most prominent religious figure in Tréguier is Saint Yves called “the poor man’s lawyer,” supposedly because he was incorruptible. He was born in a nearby village in 1253 and his tomb is in the cathedral here. In fact, Saint Yves is the patron saint of Brittany and churches all over the province, and elsewhere, have memorials to him in the form of their church’s name or in sculpture, art or glass.

Tréguier takes pride in its literary history. I found a plaque announcing that Treguier was one of the first cities in Brittany to have a printing office (1485) and, in 1499 published the first Breton/Latin/French dictionary here. The town erected a statue of Ernest Renan, a writer and philosopher born in Tréguier in 1823. He lived in a 16th century timber-framed house that remains, restored, but unfortunately poorly. He is also honored in other ways: by the name of a main street and by one restaurant where we had lunch – not exactly matching the lofty honors to Saint Yves, but then, more contemporary and practical/commercial ones.

As everywhere else in Brittany, the history is in the streets and narrow lanes offering views of gardens, half-timbered houses, and monuments. The port and harbour are picturesque, containing many pretty waterfront restaurants and crêperies. There are dramatic views of the quayside.

Walking in this town was a great pleasure. It was so pretty.

Every few seconds there was another pretty stone or half-timbered house, a flowered decoration somewhere on it, beautiful pink granite patterns, shop signs, views of the cathedral spire, a narrow street, or a large square.




I came across the Choir House, a 15th c granite building to house the choir school created in 1443. The young singers lived, studied, and rehearsed here. Another house, called the Tournemine House, had a marker stating it was built on the site where the canonization of St. Yves began in 1330. A walk on the Rue Ernest Renan brought me through the former gate to the town, now flanked by the two remaining medieval towers, facing an enormous square and the riverbank. Small boats were able to travel along the estuary with stocks of sand, stone, wheat, and linen.

My last stop was the church, unusual because it has three towers. Parts of the church date from different periods from the 11th to the 15th centuries.
Nothing remains of Tugdal’s original church, destroyed in the 9th c during the first Norman invasions. In 970 the first cathedral was erected, then replaced in the 12th c by yet another cathedral, in Romanesque style, whose only remaining part is its highest tower. Tugdal’s church is presumed to be on the site of the present cathedral. Delayed by the wars of the Breton succession, the cathedral was only completed in 1435 in the gothic style. Its flamboyant gothic cloister was once used as a marketplace which provided the monks with income for their living expenses.